Guest posting for us today is girl boss Kate Poole, the founder of Essential Apothecary Alchemist. You might remember the brand as I featured a perfume of theirs here, in my Spritural Gal Gift Guide. Essential Apothecary Alchemist is a well rounded line of skin, hair, body, and fragrance. Entirely natural and based in the age old art of essential oil perfumery her fragrances instantly captured my spirit.
Today Kate is sharing with us the art behind making an essential oil perfume. Something which I have always wanted to wrap my head around. So without further ado, here's Kate!
Making the oil
The method for extracting the vital essences from plant materials is an ancient one and has its roots in the alchemical sciences. The process of distillation, is a profoundly alchemical process, involving all the elementals. Each element is necessary to coax out the plant's life energies in this process of transformation.
We begin with a copper still (mental elemental), into which we add plant materials (wood elemental), and spring water (water elemental). The still is then heated (fire elemental) to cause steam (air elemental), where the plant material is broken down to release it's essence. The water that is released from the still is the most yin (feminine) aspect of the transformation, and the essential oil that is suspended on top of the water is the most yang (masculine) aspect of the process. Each of these transformed products offer very specific uses. Today we will focus on the essential oil aspects of distillation.
the power behind the oils
Essential oils are profound plant medicines that interact in very complex ways with our human cells. Essential oils are complex harmonies that nature produces, made up of many specific chemical molecules. Their highly potent constitution makes them powerfully attuned and they can behave as chemical messengers, capable of unlocking the receptor sites of cells and communicating with our cellular intelligence at the level of the DNA.
When you apply essential oil perfumes, you are literally changing your body's chemistry. It is well known that essential oils have remarkable effects on the body organs, the skin, the mood via the limbic system (a complex system of nerves and networks in the brain, involving several areas near the edge of the cortex concerned with instinct and mood), and all other systems of the body. Essential oils are some of the most concentrated natural plant medicines available.
Why would anyone want to wear a chemically derived fragrance that can do none of these, and most likely contains toxic petrochemicals?
The tell tale sign of a synthetically derived perfume is that it will last on the skin, hair, your clothes for a very long time and the fragrance will change very little. The volatility of pure essential oils leads to perfumes that change on the skin with time, and will dissipate naturally. Perfumes made from pure essences interact in amazing ways and it may be said that the influences of the weather, the heavenly bodies, and the mood and intent of the perfumer all impact these volatile molecules.
blending the perfume...The Song
While I offer 8 pure oil blends, I also create custom perfume blends. Historically perfumers tended to translate the art of perfume blending to a musical comparative. Perhaps, because of the ephemeral similarity between an essential oil fragrance and struck musical note, both wafting through the ethers.
When it comes to blending musical notes, essential oils, and color harmonies, our human senses are incredibly sensitive and are profoundly effected by the outcomes. Think about each essence as a single note in a song. While each note is simple, it is chemically complex, just as a single note has a very complex vibratory harmony. When single notes are combined and left to harmonize, this creates a cord, or an accord in perfume language. Single notes and accords are blended together to make up a signature scent or perfume.
Composition of a harmonious song (finished perfume), is the thoughtful blending of top, middle, and base notes. These complex arrangements in the right combinations make for a lovely fragrance.
- Top notes are lighter in fragrance and usually dissipate quickly. They are highly volatile, and fast acting. Citrus oils are good examples of top notes.
- Middle notes give body and balance to a perfume. Mid notes offer a warm and soft aroma to a perfume composition. Green plant materials are typical of middle notes.
- Base notes are heavier and long lasting, and are intense in character. Base notes encourage other lighter notes to linger. Woods, roots, and resins are characteristically base note in nature.
Some essential oils act as fixatives, meaning they stabilize the molecules of a perfume and increase the longevity of the fragrance, especially the lighter molecules of the top notes. Essential oils high in sesquiterpene molecules like sandalwood and myrrh have been used for thousands of years for their fixative properties.
formulating a custom blend
A perfume can have a focus of top, middle, or base notes, but often to balance a well rounded perfume, the top, mid, and base notes will also be added. When I am customizing a composition for a client I usually begin with the top notes. We smell directly from the bottles the highly volatile notes of blood, sweet, and bitter orange varieties. We take in the subtle differences of pink and white grapefruit, then savor lime, and bergamot for example.
Next the middle or heart notes are gathered, enjoyed and selected. Heart notes like clary sage, lavender, ylang ylang, jasmine, and rose geranium are a small sampling of middle notes. And finally base notes like patchouli, benzoin, vanilla, tonka bean, vetiver, frankincense, and rose wood fill out the base aspects of the perfume. Custom blend can be purchased here.
Because essential oils are expensive to produce, you will not find natural perfumes on the mass market. It takes approximately 10,000 roses to produce 20 drops of rose essential oil. This should not however dissuade you from procuring a treasure of this nature. Using a natural fragrance, especially one concocted specifically to your unique sensibilities, will literally transform your body, mind, and spirit. Isn't this the definition of ALCHEMY?
Find Katie's exquisit perfume alchemy at her Essential Apothecary Alchemist shop. There you can find all 8 perfume blends, MATI and YPARXI are my favorites, along with an entire line of skin and body care, as well as her spa in Seattle.